The time has come for my New York Fashion week collections review. I have decided to do it a little bit differently this time, by not using the images of the collections, but rather giving you the link where you can check out the whole collection by yourself.
When I am reviewing the collections, I always try to do it as impartially as I can. But even though we all try to be impartial at reviews, there is always a factor of personal taste and style which come into question. So rather than calling this a review, I will call it my opinion.
In order to form my opinion of the collection presented, I have used a standard set of questions which I always use when I look at any collection. These are:
- 1. Is this ready to wear or does it look more like haute couture (and vice versa)?
- 2. Is this a collection appropriate for the season it was made for?
- 3. Would I buy something from this collection?
- 4. Would I actually wear it if I bought it, or would it just hang in my closet gracefully?
- 5. Do I like a piece of clothing I see, or just the way it was styled or decorated?
- 6. Is there actually anything new or special about a piece of clothing I am looking at?
These are also the questions I use before I buy something in the store. They help me not to buy something I wouldn't wear and save the money for the clothes and accessories I actually need. So not to flounder around anymore in my endless stories, I will let you read my opinion of the collections I found interesting enough to write about. Hope you enjoy :)
Anna Sui Anna Sui manages to amaze me with yet another collection. After seeing her collection for spring 2014 I am only left with a question: "where does all this imagination season after season come from?". It seems she has a never ending fountain of inspiration hidden somewhere in her studio. I wish I had something like that at home, to help me with my designs. She knows exactly where to put each detail on her clothing - the edging, the tassels, the prints, the knots. Trust me, it's not easy to put this sort of details on clothes and still manage to create something tasteful and saleable. You know what they say: "the devil is in the details".
Araks Araks collection looks humble and yet made with a luxurious precision. The cuts are amazing, which is the only way to go when you're doing a minimalistic collection. The most important thing that I like about this collection, is that even though it was made in a minimalist style, there is also a fair amount of femininity in it. Nothing worse than unisex clothes I say! My favourite piece is the peach pink dress with mesh underlining in look 17.
Barbara Tfank I am impressed with look 2. I have never seen anyone do this before. It looks as if the shirt were cropped at the bottom, and transformed into a peplum belt. Too bad this idea wasn't explored more. I would have loved to see it evolve into a collection. This way the collection would have been more homogenous and might I say interesting in oppose to what it is now. A collection of boring sun dresses maybe? Not even that, since we can't exactly call it a collection, because there is no single idea explored. I'd rather call it a set of boring sun dresses.
Betsey Johnson Betsey Johnson is one of those designer, who manage to cover up the simplicity of their clothes by putting an excessive amount of accessories on them and adding a popping colour of hair to the models. Don't get me wrong, the clothes look great, who wouldn't wear that LBD in look 23? But that's not my point. My point is, that over-stylising the collection is just another way of showing you don't really believe in what you've created. Thus you put too much bling and popping hair colour to create a diversion away from the clothes, which are essentially not that special. So in the end, why would I buy something that even the designers themselves are not proud of? Would you?
Bibhu Mohapatra I love love love look 18. The dress looks like the wings of a fly when you magnify them. Such a great idea.
Catherine Malandrino Look 24: this look is amazing, amazing, but why oh why have they decided to put it on that specific model? Sorry, I don't usually even notice the model under the clothes, because I am so wrapped up in looking at the clothes they're wearing, but this girl really looks underweight. I'm sorry to be saying this, I mean no offence to the girl, I am just really worried when I see all the bones on her shoulders. There is nothing wrong with being skinny naturally, but there is a difference between a model who is naturally skinny and someone who is underweight. In models who are naturally skinny, you don't see the bones so much. And to put a dress with boat neck and showcase the bones on the shoulders, it looks as if the designer is applauding her for being underweight. I'm not a supporter of that at all. And this was supposed to be a review of the collection, which I really liked by the way, until I saw these bones.
Clover Canyon I love the use of blueprints and architectural motifs as a print on clothes. But again, why didn't they use this idea and evolve it through the rest of the collection. They kind of lost me at the look 5. When I see a collection, I want to see a story plot evolve in-front of my eyes. I want to see the introduction, the rising action, the climax and the rest of it. That's why there is an applause when the designer comes out. It's sort of a "ta da" effect that they create after they have told the whole story. But there is no "ta da" if there is no story. Nope :/
Cushnie et Ochs When you don't know what else to do, do a doodle! Doodle dee doo! (talking about look 14,15)
Custo Barcelona Yes! This is what I'm talking about. This is what I have in mind when I say spring 2014 ready to wear sprig 2014. And I'm definitely ready to wear this collection. It has everything. It's fresh, it's feminine and it's wearable. Love it!
Cynthia Rowley It's time for prom dance, but where is Carrie? O.o No, I'm just kidding. But seriously, again, no collection, just a set of pretty dresses and outfits, only this time they're party dresses. Well, at least there is a story behind it all. Not in the clothes though, but in the background they chose to create.
Delpozo I love the pants with the ruffle belt. I've never seen anything like it. I wish all the designer were so innovative with their designs. Applause to Delpozo!
Donna Karan My first impression was blue western. I loved the looks 9,11,12,13.
Elie Tahari love the light jackets, I don't know how they are made, but it looks like some-kind of a laser-cut technique. They're awesome! The clothes look like something you would find in ZARA, which I love. It means the collection is wearable and above all saleable.
ICB I love when designers create collections inspired by contrasts. In this case it is the contrast between sporty and elegant. Cuts are sporty and fabrics look really elegant and expensive. If ICB were a more accessible brand I would definitely buy a few pieces. The lilac and light blue dress with attached pieces look to die for. I would rob a bank to buy them. I'm not joking. Banks be afraid. :PJ. Mendel The mixing of mesh and lace panels in pastel girly colours gives this otherwise very architectural collection a more soft and feminine feel. This is what will make this collection appeal to different customers - the ones looking for something more strict and minimalist and to the ones looking for something girly and fun. The collection looks wonderful, I just wish that they didn't use fur. I feel it's an unnecessary addition to an already beautiful collection. But if they really had to use it, I really hope they used a fake one. Remember: It's disrespectful to life itself to use a part of an animal as an unnecessary decoration.
Jenny Packham wow, wow, wooow! I want absolutely every single piece from Jenny Packham's collection. Is it even possible. I love every single piece. I am putting this collection in my bookmarks tab. I want to look at it every single day of my life <3 <3 <3. I'm so in love with it, I can't even get myself do describe to you what I love about it. OK. I'll try. Here it is: fabrics, colours, prints, cuts. I love that women actually look like women in her clothes and not like robots as I'm used to seeing lately in most of the brands.
Jeremy Scott Ok. So. This collection…looks…really cheap. There, I said it. You can virtually slap me, but it's my honest opinion.
Karen Walker The best feeling you can get when you look at a collection is inspiration. This collection has inspired me, not just for spring 2014, but for this autumn as well. I want my outfits from now on to look like this! The clothes look comfortable yet chic and feminine. The wrap around skirt in the look 12 makes me feel butterflies in my stomach. <3 it!
Libertine I would expect to see a collection like this at the London fashion week. The colours, interesting prints, looking almost punk. It all gives it that London vibe. The prints also remind me a little of Stella McCartney's latest resort collection.
Marchesa A collection of dresses beyond beautiful! There are so many talented designers in New York and I'm guessing they really need a proper outlet for their haute couture like collections. There should be a part of fashion week in New York for these wonderfully looking dresses, which don't deserve to be treated as ready to wear, but rather as haute couture.
Naeem Khan The collection looked beautiful, but some of the looks (3,4,12, 17) really reminded me of Dolce&Gabbana. Did you feel the same? Even the braided hair looked a bit like something they would have done.
Nicole Miller Love the stripy dress/skirt in the look 18, the collection feels very alive, great mix of prints, popping colours, awesome pants, accessories, great job by the stylist, love it!!!
Oscar de la Renta Oscar always makes clothes that put you in a dreamy state of mind and make you feel as a movie star and that's just by looking at them. I wonder how it feels when you're actually in them. I love the whole collection except for the gowns that look like something you could see on a red carpet. Don't get me wrong, i find them stunning, I just don't see them as ready to wear. The piece that definitely impressed me the most was the translucent shirt with check print (look 18). It looks gorgeous. At first glimpse it looks like lace, but when you look at the closeup, you can see it's a translucent fabric with a check print. I love it <3
Ostwald Helgason My first impression was: "hahaha!". Otherwise, I didn't really feel this collection, but I would love to have those doggy style pieces. They look adorable! :)
Pamella Roland even though the collection doesn't inspire me or work for me in any way, I would probably buy the mini salmon floral dress (look 25) if I went shopping. I would wear that dress all summer long. Pinky promise!
Philosophy I really love the pants with string closing system in look 11. They look so modest with the grey fabric and yet very chic. The gold string also adds an element of luxury. As Chanel would put it: "poor chic".
Rachel Roy I would probably walk in her store, buy that sweatshirt from look 1 and go home with a smile :) the other pieces I probably wouldn't even notice.
Rachel Zoe Zoe designer team did a great job on this collection, especially by creating something new at their brand. Something less boho and maybe more "mainstream". I love it when celebrity clothing brands create something that doesn't make the models look like they are that celebrity's doppelgänger, but are focused more on fashion itself. Yes, I am aware that people want to buy clothes from celebrities, which are going to make them feel as one, but I also feel that if you are a celebrity and get into designing clothes, you should respect fashion enough to focus solely on it and less on yourself and your persona.
Red Valentino You know that I love it :D I don't even need to say it!
Rodarte wtf happened to Rodarte?
The Row you got it dude!
Thom Browne would any woman want to look like that? Maybe if she were depressed and on some-kind of meds, I appreciate the genius cut, but ready to wear clothing should be exactly that, ready to wear and you should be ready to wear it. Ready to wear clothing should also be ready for mass production and I don't see how this could be possibly made in a factory. Unless they have a factory of women who are hand-sewing day and night? Well at least there is something to talk about with this collection, unlike some designers who's collections have basically left me thoughtless.
I hope you've enjoyed my opinion aka review of the New York Fashion Week.